Welcome to the Chronicles of
~ the St John Adventures ~
Saturday 6/12/2010
It is another glorious day here in St John. Here is the morning view, just as the sun cleared the hills:
Last night was a good night of discovery. We decided we wanted to go downtown and get a couple of drinks (pretty much the first of the trip) and some snacks. The plan was to go to the Beach Bar (you got it - right on the beach) but we couldn't get in - the place was too crowded (not sure if that was because it was good, or just filled with people from the dive shop located right behind the bar). So we decided to try the Spyglass, a restaurant/bar located upstairs, and still on the beach. THey seemed to have some pretty good happy hour specials (we were, naturally, not going during the 5-7pm happy hour). We ordered some calimari and a bowl of lobster/crab/something bisque and a couple of boatdrinks. Damn that food was good! Apparently, they just opened in April, and word was just getting out about them. We shall be returning for our $2 tacos (minimum 2) and $1 chicken wings (minimum 5 per sauce) (I was cracking up at the minimums!)! And have I mentioned the nights here? Last night was really clear (by island standards), and you could see thousands of starts. It was gorgeous! We sat in loungers onthe deck, and just watched the stars - and the occassional shooting star! Fabulous way to end the evening. Today we did a 2-fer. Thus far, we have been hitting one beach per day, coming back to the villa, and relaxing. Today, we hit 2 beaches! What we did was to park at the Caneel Resort (you can park there for free if you buy $10 worth of stuff, so we figured this would make a good lunch stop), and walk to a beach known as Honeymoon Beach. Then we would head back to the resort, do Caneel beach, and thus cross 2 beaches off our list! Now, this walk was supposed to be a relaxed little walk, but as we were going, it was starting to feel a little like yesterday going to Leinster Bay! But it wasn't that bad, in the end. There were a bunch of boats tied to mooring balls, which are always pretty. And we were getting there just as everyone was starting to wake up, so we had the beach to ourselves!
One thing about this beach is that it is not in a bay, so it is open to the channel between St Thomas and St John. This can be read as there are waves (not big ones, but you will get tossed around a bit snorkeling), and there is a small current to add to the wave action. In other words, not ideal snorkeling conditions. Here are the beach chairs, making their daily appearance as we headed off to the reef:
As we swam across the beach, we started to see fish in the distance, and we knew we were headed in the right direction (fish are always a good sign)
I hadn't seen one of those guys before, and they are larger than the usual dark blue surgeon fish. The french grunts were out in force, though, once we got to the reef.
This next guy was one of the larger fish we had seen around - if he is edible, he will feed a family of 8, no problem at about 24 inches long!
While the reef was actually really nice, the wave action made it a bit difficult (read dangerous), so we headed back to the beach chairs. On the way we ran into these characters:
Now these guys I have seen before - but not on St John! We came across them in St Marteen when we went on that square rigged ship, the Lord Sheffield. These guys are not into eating Cheerios - they eat chicken! We had bbq chicken on that outing, and when you tossed the bones over the side, these guys attacked them! It was neat to see them. Once we got to the beach, I decided it was time to make another self portrait (tought I should wave hello in this one).
While we were on the beach, a guy swam over from one of the moored sailboats. His name was Ryan, and we got to chatting for a bit. He and his party of 6 were from San Francisco, and they had bareboat chartered their 40 foot sailboat in the BVI. They had spent the night tied up off Honeymoon Beach. It was interesting talking to him about the charter, and their experiences with it (they had only grounded it once). As we were chatting, I noticed a big dark spot moving across the water just off the beach. It was a turtle. Ryan and I dove in, and as we did, the turtle said Uh Oh... and headed to deep water. We got to see him as he headed off, but I didn't get a shot of him for you. It was still cool to see him, even as he ran from us (the coward!). I dried off (again), and Carol and I headed over to Caneel. We found a place on the beach for our beachchairs (you are surrounded by beachchairs, but you are not supposed to use them - snobs!). Then into the water we went. Initially, it was terrible - seagrass with algae growing on it. If I was a turtle, I wouldn't be there! But it got better the further you got from the resort in the bay (yes, I said bay, so the swimming was easy!). As we got out towards the point, things really started to happen. Lots of fish!
Then we came up on a group of cuttlefish - which according to my newly purchased fish id chart are actually reef squid. Whichever, there were 8 of them, all lined up in a straight line!
I know you only notice 5, but there really are eight - I actually stopped and counted!
Then we came across the largest baracuda we have seen yet in open water - 3-4' for this guy. And as Carol mentioned, he did not look intimidated by us.
This piece of coral was neat, shaped like a basket. I don't really recall seeing one like this before - and yes, this is not just a basket that got submerged! I saw lots of these formations in the water in this bay, in a variety of sizes!
The waters at the point got a little rough, so we headed back. At one point, there were tons of sargeant major fish out
My friends, the blue stripey guys, were back. And they seemed to have no problem buzzing by me, so I shot one!
Those buggers are fast! Then we hit the cuttle fish/reef squid line again.
As we got close to the beach, I noticed that this big overturned shell appeared to be moving, so I dove to it, picked it up, and turned it over
Carol says it was a hermit crab, but I say it was the biggest hermit crab I had ever heard about! I am just glad he didn't decide to come out after me! It had claws! While drying in the ever-present beach chairs, I shot this view of the Caneel Bay
And this shot, which shows the side of the bay we swam, and the point which we rounded before turning back.
After drying we went to lunch, which was nice - nothing to write about, so I won't. The grounds at Caneel really are quite pretty, even if they harbor donkey, deer, and mongoose (and yes, I have seen all 3 on the grounds!). But that doesn't change that it is pretty, like these scenes on the way to the car.
Then we headed back to the villa for a dip in the pool, after stopping at the store to get some water. Water here is interesting. There is no city water, so they collect rainwater in cisterns. The problem with that is that the water is fine to use for cleaning, showering, and general use, but it is potentially hazardous to drink, brush your teeth, etc. So you buy water at the store - 4 gallon jugs in a case for $8. Better than getting sick. Just another aspect of island life. Remember yesterday I said something about not being able to see St Croix? Well, St Croix is some 40 miles south of here, and today I can see it. Last night you could even see some of the lights from that other USVI. Damn, I hate when I am wrong! No sailboats around today, even though there are great breezes blowing (I love being up here!). There have been a number of powerboats going by Rendezvous Bay. They are not quite as much fun to watch, but not bad. Good way to enjoy an afternoon. Along with writing to you guys, naturally! Fair winds!
Keep Smiling!!!
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